My Central Asia travel is perhaps the highlight of my 2024. This corner of the world is among the most underrated destinations for both budget conscious globetrotters and solo female travelers like myself.
The lack of highlight from mainstream media makes Central Asia sort of an off the beaten path destination. I visited Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan from September to November and I will share my experience with you in this blog.
- The 5 Stans of Central Asia
- Central Asia Travel: Kazakhstan
- Exploring Almaty, Kazakhstan
- Experience as a Solo Traveler in Kazakhstan
- Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan Border Crossing
- Central Asia Travel: Kyrgyzstan
- Experience as a Solo Traveler in Kyrgyzstan
- Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan Border Crossing
- Exploring Uzbekistan
- Experience as a Solo Traveler in Uzbekistan
- A Weird Experience in Uzbekistan
- Central Asia Travel: A Memory of a Lifetime
The 5 Stans of Central Asia
The region is made up of five countries, also known as the “5 Stans of Central Asia.” This is because the names of the countries end in “-stan” which means “the land of” in Persian.
- Kazakhstan – the largest and wealthiest among the 5 Stans of Central Asia. The country is known for its modern cities like Astana and Almaty and also its natural attractions like the Kolsai Lake national park.
- Kyrgyzstan – with capital Bishkek sitting only six hours away from Almaty, Kyrgyzstan is a paradise for nature lovers and budget travelers.
- Uzbekistan – the historical, architectural, and gastronomic center of Central Asia, culinary experience in Uzbekistan is not the one to miss.
- Tajikistan – the most mountainous country in the region, with over 90% of its land covered by mountains.
- Turkmenistan – known as the most closed country out of the five, Turkmenistan is home to the popular attraction Darvaza Gas Crater or Door to Hell. This gained global popularity a massive burning natural gas field that has been continuously ablaze since early 1970s
Central Asia Travel: Kazakhstan
Directly from Mongolia, I took a flight to Kazakhstan’s most popular city, Almaty to officially start my Central Asia travel. I would get one thing straight: I did not have a good first impression of this country. And I am pleased I didn’t because it only made everything great from there.
Right off the bat, ATM machines were hard to scout at the airport. This is a first because airports are usually full of them. After walking around and finding nothing, I ended up exchanging some of my USD bills at an authorized exchange counter. This was the first big mistake of the day because the rates were really bad. I ended up calling them scam prices out of frustration because this was perhaps the worst exchange rates I’ve gotten. But I was too hungry and exhausted to find other places.
If I am being transparent with you, I am actually glad this happened because it gave me a deep realization about traveling: you come to a country as a visitor and you have to accept the rules of the game, regardless if you like it or not. Also, you don’t just take – you also give. And bad exchange rates, perhaps, is a form of that.
Exploring Almaty, Kazakhstan
I wasn’t satisfied with the exchange rate mishap because I knew that you ought to make the most amount of mistakes, stress, and learnings on your first day in a new country. So I crossed out the thought of getting a taxi to my hostel and took the bus from the airport.
Imagine someone carrying two big backpacks in a crowded bus – spicy. It was my first time using the Yandex app which is Central Asia’s version of Grab or Uber. It is an all-in-one platform that you can use to book a taxi, see bus routes and schedules, order food, and more. Note that Google Maps is not very accurate in this region, partly because of the use of Cyrillic alphabets, therefore learning all the fine details of Yandex will be your best option to get around. You guessed it right: I got lost and ended up in a taxi in the end. But, I tried, at least.
I initially stayed in the far end of Almaty and almost got hit by a reckless driver on my first night. But Kazakhstan slowly grew on me the more I spent time in the country. Almaty, which is the only city I’ve been to, is very well connected by bus. The public buses leave on schedule and there are waiting stations throughout the city so public transportation is almost never an issue.
As of the time I visited, the majority of drivers still accept cash payments but you cannot always expect a change since everyone pays by their card. You are encouraged to download the Onay Card app that allows you to simply tap your card or phone to pay for the ride. I missed the chance to get it at the airport, and now I regret it a little since digital payments offer both cheaper bus fares and convenience.
You have to take note: Buses operate only until a certain time depending on your area. From my remembrance it was at 11 pm in my volunteer house so it’s best to get the times if you plan on staying out late. Taking a taxi also does not hurt because fares are on the cheaper side compared to most countries I visited.
Experience as a Solo Traveler in Kazakhstan
I spent close to a month in Almaty, volunteering near the Medeu mountains for two weeks and another two weeks for myself. Although my experience is limited to the city, I loved my stay in Kazakhstan.
Almaty is very modern and I would go as far as saying that it has the potential to become a digital nomad haven: reliable connectivity, efficient public transportation, availability of infrastructures (cafes and work-suitable spaces), affordable prices, and nature. I walked alone at night and visited places entirely on my own and never felt unsafe.
Locals are actually very friendly but not in an intrusive way – they keep their space and respect yours, and they are always willing to help. (I want to tell you the time I was stuck in the city at midnight due to road construction, but I’ll get to that in another story.)
In terms of language, Russian is commonly used for everyday conversations. But I was told that locals will be so happy if they hear you speak Kazakh. So a simple Rakhmet (thank you) will be handy. English is not as common, but you can always use Google Translate to communicate your purpose.
When it comes to food, Almaty is also a food haven and you’ll never run out of choices. I personally prefer small and affordable restaurants referred to as “stolovayas” with ready-made food. I frequented a chain called “Qaganat” which you’ll find all over the city. It’s a fast food kind of setup, only that it exclusively offers local specialties like manti, beshbarmak, and many desserts, making it a good option when looking for a healthier choice.
Use my code "MIRJ" or link for a 10% discount on your Worldpackers membership: https://www.worldpackers.com/promo/MIRJ?utm_campaign=MIRJ&utm_medium=referral&utm_source=affiliateKazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan Border Crossing
From Almaty, I took a six-hour bus from the Sairan bus station (https://maps.app.goo.gl/amHNSctVRC6vrCLv6) to get into Kyrgyzstan’s capital, Bishkek. Although I left on a weekend, I did not purchase a ticket in advance and only got to the station a couple of minutes before the scheduled departure. Some of my co-volunteers who left earlier than I did went to the station to purchase their tickets in advance to have a sure seat, and from what I heard you can’t do it online, at least at the time we were there.
The journey was comfortable. We stopped for a quick meal at a stolovaya and continued the journey. I was quite surprised at how smooth the border crossing went, especially as a solo female traveler from the Philippines who has never been to this side of the world. I remember crossing between Malaysia and Thailand by land and being asked quite a good number of questions to make sure I have no plans of overstaying.
I wasn’t asked any questions when I crossed from Kazakhstan to Kyrgyzstan. From the Kazakh side, we took a bit of time in the queue since there were a lot of people crossing that day. From the Kyrgyz side, everything went very fast. I needed an electronic visa to enter Kyrgyzstan which I applied for in advance. The officer briefly looked at my e-visa and allowed me to enter. No other questions asked.
Central Asia Travel: Kyrgyzstan
Next on my Central Asia travel is Kyrgyzstan – the destination I was looking forward to seeing the most. I follow a Kyrgyz nature photographer on Instagram and always get inspired by his adventures. Bishkek is quiet for a capital and the influence of the Soviet era is still pretty much evident from buildings to public parks. It was good for staying two to three days, just to be familiar with the culture and history through museum tours.
To get around from one town to another, your best option will be taking “marshrutkas,” These are big vans used as public transportations, charging affordable rates and are quite comfortable to ride. I used them everywhere – from getting to Bishkek to Karakol and to other towns I visited.
I am very sensitive to sound and smell, so I want to share my personal observation with marshrutkas. First, they don’t use the funny-smelling air fresheners. These are used a lot in the Philippines when traveling by van and they make me feel sick, hence traveling by marshrutka without these is quite a breath of fresh air, literally.
Second, you’ll most likely get a quiet ride. One issue I often encounter when traveling in the Philippines and other parts of Southeast Asia are music and television shows in full volume. They can overstimulate the sense of hearing fast which leads me to feel dizzy. There’s almost none of this in marshrutka rides, and locals, at least in my experience, talk in hushed manner.
Experience as a Solo Traveler in Kyrgyzstan
I traveled Kyrgyzstan for close to a month and visited Bishkek, Karakol, Jeti Oguz, and Bokonbayevo. The experience was nothing short of amazing and it exceeded my expectations despite the fact that I set the bar very high.
The country is beautiful in every corner. There’s one time when I traveled from Karakol to Bokonbayevo where I got a full sense of what beautiful is – the famous Issyk Kul lake on my right, the Skazka Fairytale Canyons on my left, and some snow-covered mountains in front. That pretty much sums up the kind of country Kyrgyzstan is: breathtaking.
It’s also a very affordable country to travel to. Hostels cost around $10 (500 PHP) a night, while dining out is at $6 (300 PHP) to $8 (400 PHP) on average for a solo female like myself. One issue I had with food is that, like the Philippines and Mongolia, Kyrgyz love their meat. I found it quite hard to hit my vegetable goal intake when eating out in restaurants. So I go to supermarkets to get ready-made vegetable dishes or buy fruits from local sellers. You can also get nuts, dried fruits, and breads at affordable prices.
Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan Border Crossing
Crossing from Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan was not a walk in the park. First, I had to take a 16-hour bus from Bishkek to Tashkent where they literally put me in a bunk. It was initially a very uncomfortable experience because they placed me between two men, but they were very friendly and respectful, and the journey has become an insightful travel experience.
Being placed in a literal hole to sleep next to strangers did not sound like a good idea. But my “bunk mates” were very aware of the fact there is a woman sleeping side by side with them, and they did their best to help me find my footing in the situation. I know it sounds quite selfish to show discomfort in a situation like this, especially that I should have known what I signed up for when taking a cheap, public transportation.
But what I did is to acknowledge my feelings at first, before resigning to my fate with having an open mind to a new experience. It was a beautiful experience of openness which is what travel is often about.
One thing I did not know about the Kyrgyzstan to Uzbekistan crossing is that the bus will pass through Kazakhstan. Good thing that, as a citizen of the Philippines, we can enter Kazakhstan visa-free, hence this did not end up bad. If you’re from a country that needs a visa to enter Kazakhstan, you should consider this before taking the bus and prepare the required documents.
Uzbekistan is quite different from Kyrgyzstan and you’ll see this in the border facility. Entering Kyrgyzstan from the Uzbek side is done quickly through electronic gates, while us doing the opposite had to wait in a chaotic line with only two immigration officers facilitating the crossing of hundreds of people.
When it was my turn, I got held for an hour and a half in front of the counter, with the officer giving me an explanation. I applied for my electronic visa in advance so I had no idea what the problem was. Others, who queued on the same officers were stuck with me since he had to leave the post to attend to my issue. I felt quite ashamed but the people were very understanding.
Finally, after more than an hour of waiting, the officer returned and stamped my passport. No questions asked. No explanations given. We had to wait for our bus to come to the Uzbek side but, even when I got held for a long time, the bus was still stuck on the Kyrgyz side. I made friends with some travelers from the same bus and we took the taxi to the city center. It was a fun group but we never saw each other again. Sad.
Exploring Uzbekistan
Uzbekistan is the final country in my Central Asia travel stint. I stayed in the country for two weeks – the shortest of the three – but managed to visit all the popular sites including Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. It’s not that I did not like Uzbekistan, in fact its capital Tashkent is one of my favorite cities, it’s just that after spending quite a long time in the cold, my Filipina bum is already craving for some heat. It is the end of October and days are only getting colder.
Unlike Kyrgyzstan where marshrutkas are your best transportation option, trains are the king in Uzbek roads. Locals and travelers alike travel by trains to hop between towns, and there are different types of trains and classes. Many travelers go for the Afrosiyob high speed trains which are expensive but convenient. Afrosiyob seats sold out very fast, and many people book them weeks in advance, due to limited availability.
Meanwhile, locals opt for more budget-friendly options, especially on longer-distance travels, and sleeper trains are almost always the best bet for that. I exclusively took sleeper trains on my Uzbekistan trip, two times in third class for Samarkand to Bukhara, and Bukhara to Khiva, and first class for Khiva to Tashkent. There is very little space to move around and ventilation is almost non-existent. Surprisingly, I slept well in the sleeper train and there’s so much happiness in the fact that you are traveling with locals and you can see how things go there.
Aside from trains, taking a taxi is another good option to explore sites within cities. Uzbekistan, in my calculation, has the cheapest taxi rates among the countries I visited. I remember booking a taxi to a popular Uzbek restaurant chain which was a 35-minute ride without traffic, and paid $3 (180 PHP). Mindblown.
Experience as a Solo Traveler in Uzbekistan
With some of the articles I read about Uzbekistan about scams on popular spots and a whole group of taxi drivers coming to you at train stations, I had my guards up as soon as I came here.
While there is truth about the scam and taxi stories, it’s really not that bad. First, I’ll talk about scams. I myself have fallen for this when buying jewelry in Samarkand, but it’s more because I badly wanted to buy one instead of scouring through the neighborhood and getting the best price. One tactic that scammy sellers have is to give you the highest possible price for a thing you want to buy, and they expect you to negotiate. I did not have the energy for that so I felt quite irritated by the scheme at first.
Second, taxi drivers will really come at you at train stations, mostly on major ones like Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara. One time I landed in Bukhara, sleepy and hungry, and was instantly swarmed by taxi drivers. I had to dismiss around 20 of them, drank my cold coke at midnight in the middle of the road, and booked a Yandex.
As I recall my memory now, I really did feel vulnerable in that situation, especially because I had been traveling for quite some time when I had been in the country so my sensitivity is really high. But Uzbekistan is more like a “dismiss them and I am off” kind of country: they understand a no so you have to give a firm one. I had been to Morocco, and safe to say, Uzbekistan gives it easy.
A Weird Experience in Uzbekistan
Before ending this blog, I want to share one weird experience I had in Tashkent. There are not many hostel options in the capital and I had to settle for a guesthouse at one point. There are three beds in this guesthouse with no cover, so you get to have “roommates,” with each having their own bed.
The middle bed is occupied by an old man who claims to be working for the ministry of energy. He looks like a permanent tenant of the guesthouse, with his cabinet already full of suits and shoes for work. The old man was initially friendly, but he became overly friendly at one point, and held my hand tightly upon greeting me in the breakfast room. He did not do anything more upon showing him my discomfort, but it was quite discomforting to share the same room with this person.
One thing I am thankful for is that reception is 24 hours, and the guesthouse staff sleeps right in front of our room. So in case anything weird happens, I can call for help. Thankfully, everything went ok. But if not, I am ready for these kinds of incidents, being a solo female traveler for years now.
Central Asia Travel: A Memory of a Lifetime
One thing that kept me sane during the pandemic is watching vlogs on Central Asia travel and I always feel an emotional sensation in my heart.
My trip to Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Uzbekistan, is an adventure of a lifetime, with lots of new learnings and experiences. For a solo female traveler, Central Asia is not only a safe corner in the world but also worth seeing for its beauty, culture, and cuisine.
